Thursday 19 February 2015

Transitioning to Natural Hair







As with any journey, transitioning presents its own unique challenges. While everyone’s experiences are different, it can be helpful to see how others have navigated through the process; all in the name of networking.

Disrespecting the game
As the journey of transitioning is underway, it is important to recognize the hair that is still relaxed while respecting the new texture. Carrying on as if the modulation process is not taking place could have a negative impact. The inability to commit to the new coils in your life and putting up resistance to allowing them the freedom to do what comes “natural” will prove to be futile. You must come up with an entirely new plan of action for this step in the journey. For example, blending the now two textures will be a breeze if you chose styles such as twist outs and bantu knots vs. a straight style.


Using the old to address the new
Transitioning not only applies to your hair journey but also the products you use. It is debatable whether or not it is an absolute necessity to use only natural hair products for natural hair, however, certain ingredients have proven to benefit textured hair that are not contained in many non-natural commercial products. As your new hair grows in it will require a new regimen that addresses its needs. You will find that as the transition approaches completion, it is possible that you will switch products yet again. Paying attention to your strands and how they respond to certain ingredients will be essential to a successful process.

Lack of due diligence
Jumping into any commitment without doing your due diligence puts you directly in the path of failure. Researching the logistics of natural hair care will save you a lot of heartache and assist in the overall management. There are countless websites, blogs (uh-emmm *clears throat), and You Tube channels dedicated to the topic.

Using the wrong tools

Relaxed hair and natural hair have different demands so it stands to reason that some of the tools used to manage those needs will be different.
(example: wide tooth comb)

No deep conditioning
If deep conditioning was not part of your relaxed hair regimen, it needs to be an integral part now. Since natural hair is inherently dry, extra care to infuse moisture is important and including deep conditioning in your new regimen is one way to achieve this.

Not taking advantage of the versatility
During my transition I didn’t appreciate the versatility that came with it and I forgot to have fun with it by trying new looks. When I wasn’t flat ironing the hell out of it, I was doing wash and goes and that’s it. A few times I flirted with the finger coil method but for the most part I only entertained wash and go’s…boring.





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Monday 16 February 2015

FACTS you should KNOW about YOUR HAIR






Here are some important facts you should 
know about your hair:



  • Cuticle Layer

    The cuticle layer forms the outermost lining of the hair. It consists of a single layer of scale-like overlapping keratinocytes. The condition of this outer layer indicates the state of the hair’s health. In the optimal case, flat keratinocyte scales are tiled smoothly around the cortex and protect the inside of the hair shaft against damaging influences from the outside. Intact cuticle layers around the hair form a smooth, light-reflecting structure. Beautiful lustre therefore indicates healthy hair.
    In contrast, the cuticle layer of stressed hair (due to bleaching, perming and frequent hot blow-drying) is disorganised and rough. Under these conditions, damaging substances can easily penetrate into the hair cortex. As a result, the entire head of hair looks brittle, dull and shaggy. Intensive hair treatments and conditioning rinses restore the smooth structure of the cuticle layer.
  • Hair Cycle

    Individual hairs go through a sequence of developmental phases. Most hairs (about 8 of 10 hairs) are in the growth phase (anagen phase). In this phase the new hair root is generated and the hair grows. This phase lasts between two and seven years. A two to three week long transitional phase follows (catagen phase). In this phase, the cell production in the follicle stops temporarily, the follicle constricts and the hair falls out. Approximately one per cent of the follicles are in this transitional (catagen) phase. In the following resting phase (telogen phase), the hair follicle regenerates, the cells start to divide again and a new hair starts to form. About 10 to 20 % of all hairs are in this phase, which lasts about two to four months.
    • Hair Colour

      Pigments in the hair follicles give our hair its natural colour. They are produced inside specialised pigment cells and from there the pigments travel through tiny channels to the keratinocytes, thus inundating the entire hair with colour. In general, dark-haired people have a higher concentration of pigments in their hair than blondes.
  • Dandruff

    Dandruff shows up when the scalp sheds dead skin cells prematurely and in excessive numbers. This can happen whether the scalp is dry or fatty. Different conditions may cause dandruff, such as stress, improper nutrition, hormonal changes as well as dry heated air, frequent blow-drying or aggressive shampoos. Remedies are anti-dandruff shampoos with active ingredients like Octopirox or zinc pyrithione.
  • Hair Follicles

    The hair follicle is a slanted invagination in the scalp, in which the individual hair is anchored. The hair shafts form inside these follicles. Sebaceous glands end in the upper part of the follicles. They provide the hair and scalp with sebum.
  • Grey Hair
    With the help of proper care products grey hair can look fabulous
    © Silverstock.

    Grey Hair

    Grey hair is not really grey but rather a mixture of colourless and pigmented hair. The mixture appears grey. Hair turns white when the pigment cells reduce their melanin synthesis. In some people, this process starts very early and very late in others. Genetic factors determine when the first white hairs appear.

    Growth


    Hair grows 0.3 to 0.45 mm per day or 1 to 1.2 cm per months. (1 cm is equivalent to 0.4’’.) It is practically impossible to influence the hair growth from the outside. The maximum hair length ranges between 40 and 80 cm (between 16 and 32’’).
  • Hair Dictionary: Keratin
    Keratin gives structure to hair and nails
    © Jupiterimages

    Keratin

    The main component of hair (and nails) is keratin, a very elastic protein.

    Life Span of Hair


    On average, a hair remains in the scalp for six to eight years before it falls out. The individual life span depends on genetic factors. In cases of severe hair loss, the life span of hair may be reduced to three or four years.
  • Hair Loss

    Losing 30 to 100 hairs per day is normal. Several conditions can result in losing more than the maximum of 100 hairs per day. In about 95 % of all cases of both male and female hair loss, genetic factors are to blame. Due to the overproduction of male hormones (androgens), the blood supply to the hair follicles is reduced and in turn, the hair is no longer tightly anchored in the scalp.
  • Melanin

    The skin pigment melanin also occurs inside the keratin fibres of the hair. The amount of melanin determines how light or dark the hair is. As people age, the melanin production slows down and the hair turns grey or white. There are two types of melanin, the larger brownish black eumelanin pigments and considerably smaller reddish yellow pheomelanin pigments. All existing human hair colours are composed of these two pigment types.
  • Hair Quality

    Our genetic make-up decides whether we have thick or thin hair. Europeans consider hair with a diameter of 0.04 to 0.06 mm as thin, hair with a diameter between 0.06 and 0.08 mm as normal, and hair with a diameter between 0.08 and 0.1 mm as thick. By comparison with European hair, Asian hair is significantly thicker. The average diameter of Asian hair is 0.08 to 0.12 mm. European hair has a somewhat elliptical shape, while Asian hair is rounder and more elastic. (1mm is equivalent to 0.039’’, i. e. about 4 hundredth of an inch.)
  • Scalp

    The skin on the scalp resembles the rest of the skin and it is equally sensitive. Despite the hair, the scalp can get sunburned. Cold, heat and other conditions may dry out the scalp and cause itching and/or dandruff. For a variety of reasons, the sebaceous glands in the scalp may produce excessive amounts of sebum and lead to a fatty scalp.
  • Sebum

    Sebaceous glands exist almost everywhere in the skin, including the scalp. These glands produce the fat, which protects the scalp and hair from drying out. The sebum synthesis may be out of kilter ever now and then due to genetic predisposition, stress or hormonal changes. This may result in a fatty scalp and fatty hair or to a very dry scalp. Either condition may lead to bothersome scalp conditions with itching, redness or dandruff.
  • Hair Dictionary: Split Ends
    Only a pair of scissors can remedy severe cases of split ends
    © Nacivet

    Split Ends

    Long hair frequently shows split ends. In most instances, this is caused by mechanical stress like combing, brushing or bouncing off the shoulder. Frequent colouring, bleaching, perming or using heated styling tools may also lead to split ends. Split-end fluids can be used to coat the split ends with a whisper-thin silicone film to improve the appearance of the hair at least for a while. Otherwise, a haircut is the only effective solution.

    Strength


    A single hair is able to hold at least 100 g weight without breakage. That brings the combined bearing capacity of all hairs on the average scalp to at least ten tons.
  • Structure - The Way Hair is Built

    Hair consists to roughly 80 % of keratin (protein), 10 to 15 % is water and the remaining 5 to 10 % are pigments, minerals and lipids. The cuticle layer forms the outer layer of every hair. The cuticle layer envelops the inner part of the hair shaft called the hair cortex. The cortex comprises about 80 % of the hair mass. Colouring, bleaching or perming takes place inside the hair cortex.
  • Hair Volume

    How many hairs a person has on average depends on the hair colour. With 150,000 hairs blondes have the most hairs. Black-haired people come in second with about 110,000 hairs, followed by brunettes with 100,000 hairs and redheads with 80,000 hairs.




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Sunday 15 February 2015

Naturalista: Versatile with 93 Styles


NaturalMetra

     


From ‘fros to twist outs to straight to puffs, the versatility of our natural hair never ceases to amaze me.  Here are ten beautiful collages that showcase this amazing flexibility:
The above picture: This collage is the epitome of natural hair versatility.  NaturalMetra gives us no limits to what natural hair can do.

2. JuicesandBerries
Talk about changeability!  In this collage, JuicesandBerries transforms from curls to an afro to a bantu knot out to a twist out.
juicesandberries
3. MoknowsHair
You may recognize MoknowsHair (or Monica) from the style icon series.  She certainly knows no limits to natural hair in this collage!
MoknowsHair
4. Loccrush
I haven’t forgot about my loc’ed ladies out there.  Check out the versatility Loccrush is giving us with this photo collage.
Loccrush
5. Hercurlzrbadd
Her curls really are “badd”!  If this collage doesn’t make you love our natural hair possibilities, I don’t know what to tell you.
hercurlzrbadd
6. Mz_Tammy
A natural hair collage list is not one without Mz_Tammy.  She demonstrates versatility using stretched updos, fros, twists, curls, and more.
MzTammy
7. MsRokia
MsRokia gives us nine different possibilities with natural hair in this cool collage.
msrokia
8. ChigirlMakeup
With the exception of the wig and weave, Chigirlmakeup gives us countless looks on natural hair.
chigirlmakeup
9. AmekaColeman
For you ladies with long and thick hair, AmekaColeman is giving us seven different possibilities on her natural tresses.
AmekaColeman
10. Only1me.cc
And last but not least is Only1me.cc showing us no limits on shrunken and stretched natural hair!
only1mecc


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Friday 13 February 2015

Things You Should Know Before Colouring Your Hair






You want a change in hair colour? Well, here are some special techniques and tips to help you along: 



Rule 1: Ignore the Photos on the Box
"When shopping for at-home hair color, many women will only look at the picture on the box," says Jet Rhys, celebrity stylist and co-owner of the Jet Rhys Salons in San Diego. "The model on the box may have the perfect shade of brown, but we don't know what her hair color was like before the dye." Instead, consult the numbers and letters on the package to determine the level of color and desired tone, says Izabela Saboski, director of color for Salon Ziba in New York City. On a shade scale of 1 to 10, 1 is the darkest, 10 the lightest. The letters, she explains, reveal the dye's undertones — a means ash, g gold, c copper, and n neutral.

Rule 2: Use Your Own Coloring as a Guide
According to Kyle White, lead colorist at the Oscar Blandi Salon in New York City, light-skinned, light-eyed women look more natural with lighter shades, while women with darker hair and skin look better in darker shades. If you have a lot of pink in your skin, avoid warmth in a hair color because it will make you look flushed. Those who have olive skin tones should opt for gold tones, which bring warmth to the face and make skin look less green. If your skin tone is neutral, says White, with no pink or green, you can wear either warm or cool blond shades.
Rule 3: Stay Within Two Shades of Your Natural Color
Colorists agree: When dyeing your hair at home, don't go more than two shades lighter or darker. This is especially important for brunettes who want to go blond. "If your hair is dark and you want to lighten it," says Saboski, "I suggest you make an appointment at a salon, since at-home color will be ineffective in lightening your hair."
That's because at-home color kits don't contain the strong chemicals needed to radically change your color. "There's a reason hair colorists have to go to school, pass a test, and get a license from the government," says White. "The reason is that the chemicals needed to perform complicated hair color changes can severely damage hair and scalp alike."
Rule 4: Do a Test Drive Before Committing to a Permanent Color
"For safe coloring, I recommend demi-permanent hair color, which will fade slightly each time you shampoo," says Saboski. "Demi-permanent color also minimizes damage and simply enhances the natural color." Demi-permanent color is a mixture of permanent and semi-permanent dyes. It doesn't have the power to lighten dark hair, but it can match or deepen your color.
You can also try semi-permanent dye, which, as with demi-permanent color, won't lighten your hair. Semi-permanent formulas don't penetrate the hair deeply and wash out in about 8 to 12 shampoos.
Rule 5: Don't Skip the Patch Test
It's important to test a new color on a small area of your hair before you apply it to your entire head — otherwise, you're asking for a mishap. "If the color you use is too ashy, say, your skin will look drab and old," says Saboski. You also risk a scalp reaction if your skin doesn't tolerate the dye chemicals.
To do a patch test, apply the dye on a small section of your hair, and see if the color is too light, dark, or ashy.
Rule 6: Do Damage Control Before You Dye
"A good thing to do the day before coloring is to use a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup, and to help even the hair's porosity so color takes evenly," says White. "You should follow that with a deep conditioner to replace any moisture that may be lost during coloring."
But skip shampooing the day you dye your hair. "Shampoo doesn't make the color take better," says Rhys. Additionally, by not shampooing before you color, you're allowing the natural oils in your hair to protect your scalp from the irritation that can be caused by the ammonia in many dyes.
Rule 7: Avoid Color Overkill
Good news: You don't have to dye your whole head every time you notice your color fading. Doing so "will cause color buildup, discolored ends, bands of lightness and darkness, and unnecessary damage," says White. "You only want to dye the new growth, and maybe, if absolutely needed, refresh faded ends during the last few minutes of the coloring process."


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Thursday 12 February 2015

The Benefits of Castor Oil For YOUR HAIR






Castor oil is a vegetable oil obtained by pressing the seeds of the castor oil plant (Ricinus communis). Honey Vera uses this wonderful oil in our 100% Organic Vanilla Castor-Coconut Hair Oil and here are some of its magnificent benefits:






Castor oil for hair growth
How to make your hair grow faster? Use castor oil! Massage slightly warmed up castor oil into your hair and scalp and it will improve the blood circulation to your follicles, promoting faster hair growth. The oil also contains omega-6 fatty acids, so it will nourish your hair as well. For a really deep effect, after massaging the oil into your roots and spreading all over your hair (up to the ends), make a bun and cover your hair with a cap, leave the oil on overnight and wash out the next day (you might need to wash your hair a couple of times to get rid of the greasy feel). If you find that the consistency of castor oil is too thick and it’s hard to work with it, then mix castor oil with coconut oil or sweet almond oil in proportion 1:1 and use as described above. Your hair will be shiny and silky and will grow faster.


Treats dandruff and other scalp conditions
Amongst its many properties, castor oil also has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. Massaged into the scalp it will help to clear up dandruff and other scalp conditions quickly and if you use it regularly, it will stop the conditions from taking hold in the first place.
If you have dry hair and dandruff, try doing this hair mask: mix 1 tablespoon of castor oil with one tablespoon of olive oil and add juice of half a lemon. If you have oily hair and dandruff, then mix one tablespoon of each of these ingredients: castor oil, honey and aloe vera gel, then add juice of half a lemon. Apply the mask on the roots of your hair for about 30 minutes before shampooing and conditioning your hair. This mask will not only help you get rid of dandruff, but will also nourish and condition your hair, making it healthier and shinier.


Thickens hair
Castor oil contains omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids, both of which are useful for encouraging healthy hair growth. With regular use, castor oil will encourage new growth and thicken existing strands to give you a beautiful and shiny head of thicker hair.


Conditions hair
You don’t need expensive, manufactured conditioners to condition your hair, simply mix a couple of drops of castor oil with your leave-in conditioner and apply evenly to your hair; your locks will become softer and healthier.


It brings the shine back into your hair
Warm up some castor oil and massage it into your hair, wrap your hair in a towel and leave for half an hour or so (or leave it overnight), then wash off;  it will lock the moisture in your hair, condition it and leave you with the beautiful glossy look to your locks.


How to get rid of split ends? Use castor oil
Apply castor oil on the ends of your hair for half an hour before shampooing. If you do it regularly, you’ll soon forget about dry, split ends and your hair will look healthier and shinier.



Here are some additional things that you should know about Castor Oil:




Castor oil is very thick. Applying it undiluted can be problematic – you should either get your scalp/hair wet before using the oil or mix (50/50) castor oil together with a different oil such as coconut, avocado or almond. This will make it easier to spread the oil out nicely and should help to prevent buildup.

Castor oil doesn’t smell nice. Add a few drops of rosemary, peppermint or a similar essential oil to help with the smell.
Use very little oil. When applying castor oil to your scalp you should avoid overuse to prevent having to deal with greasy hair afterwards. Plus, if you put too much of it on your head, it can be very difficult to wash out!

Spread it evenly. While many people like to use a dropper bottle to drop oil directly onto the scalp, I prefer using my fingers instead. Put your castor oil mix into a small bowl, dip your fingers in the oil and then apply it gently to your scalp. This may not seem like a big deal, but it does help to reduce problems with greasy/oily hair post-treatment.

Warm it up. If the oil feels extremely thick you can warm it up a little to make it more fluid. Don’t microwave it though – fill up a bowl with hot water, then add a smaller bowl with some castor oil into it and wait 2-4 minutes.
Shampoo or conditioner? If you find that your regular shampoo just doesn’t get all of the oil out of your head, try using a conditioner instead (and skip the shampoo). Apply some conditioner to your head/hair, wait for 10-20 minutes and then wash it out.

How often? Just 1-2 treatments per week should be enough to see good results. Give it about four weeks your should feel an improvement in how your scalp or hair feels.
article source pic 3 source








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