These Things are NOT Moisturisers

HEY HONEYVERANS!!!
Here is a list of things that do not moisturize your hair.

Hair butters

Hair butters are amazing, moisturizing sealants often used for protective styles and in cooler months. While they may have some moisturizing ingredients, they are better suited for sealing in the moisture from water or water-based products like moisturizers, leave-in conditioners, or conditioners. They are usually the last step or used right before your styler. Not only do they lock in your moisture, they also prevent moisture from getting in after you add the butter. Stick to using butters for sealing purposes and you cannot go wrong.

Adding moisturizers to dirty hair

No moisturizer in the world will work if it is applied to dirty hair. You have to remove all the pollutants and products from the hair so it can absorb and adsorb moisture. This is why clarifying shampoosare a must to ensure all traces of dirt and products have been removed and then your hair can be ready for conditioning and moisture. Shampoos are not popular in our community, but they are necessary so we can properly keep hair healthy and hydrated.

Oils

Many incorrectly associate oils with moisture, but oils, especially carrier oils, simply seal the hair to lock in moisture you have already applied. A select few oils are capable of penetrating the cuticle layer and nourishing the entire hair shaft, such as coconut oil, avocado oil, and olive oil, but many will simply sit on top of the hair. Before applying an oil, do your homework to learn if it is one that actually penetrates the hair shaft. We published a list of moisturizing oils, sealants, and sealants that impart a little bit of moisture here. 

Styling products

We curly girls love our stylers and if it wasn’t for my Holy Grail gels, I would be a frizzy fool, but do not assume that they are moisturizing enough to apply alone. Your styler may have some moisturizing ingredients, but their primary function is to give hold. Curly hair needs all of the moisture it can get, so apply a leave-in before you apply a styler.

Proteins

Our hair is made of hard protein keratin and needs hydrolyzed protein to fill in the damaged hair cuticles, but what protein does not do for our hair is moisturize it. They are used to rebuild and strengthen hair, not moisturize. You need a proper balance between proteins and moisture for healthy hair, and that requires two different types of products. Never assume a protein treatment will add moisture or you may end up using them too often, which can lead to dry, brittle strands.

Loading up on silicones

There is a love/hate relationship between many curlies and their silicones. We have been told they are the devil and will cause buildup, but it is just non-water soluble silicones that cause that problem. Many curly girls use and love water-soluble silicones. Water-soluble silicones like dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate provide great benefits to our curly hair and are able to be removed without using harsh sulfates. The problem lies in the belief that since these silicones provide great slip to hair, they actually moisturize hair by making dry and damaged hair look and feel healthy and smooth.

Know that the sole source of hydration is water. Humectants help to attract moisture, oils and silicones can help retain it, and protein reduces moisture loss by temporarily repairing the hair shaft. Water-based products are your best friends, ladies. Don’t forget to read your labels, especially for moisturizers, refreshers, and leave-in conditioners.
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Do These Things For LONG HAIR

Hey HoneyVerans!!

1. GAIN UNDERSTANDING.

When you decide to grow your own hair, the first step is to learn about natural hair AND your own hair, because it is unique from any other head of hair you will encounter. It’s good to know about natural hair in general, but if you never examine your own waves, curls, kinks, and/or coils, you won’t be able to handle them properly. You should take the time to really do your research so that you won’t waste time buying products that aren’t suitable for your hair or creating habits that are ultimately just a waste of time.

When I first went natural, I spent hours on YouTube and hair blogs, just immersing myself in natural hair, which was something I didn’t even know was a “thing.” At the time, there wasn’t nearly as much information available as there is now, so your task actually quite easy! But you must also realize that you have to eat the meat and throw away the bone. Every tip isn’t one you should acquire, and with time, you’ll find your groove.

You’ll quickly see that there are many methods, routines, and regimens out there but you’ll find that everything isn’t good for your hair/lifestyle. Me, personally? I’ve learned that for my hair and lifestyle, it’s best to just keep it simple. I wash my hair once a week, following up with conditioning, and then deep conditioning with heat for 30 minutes. During the summer my hair is almost always in a bun, which I take down 2-3 times a week to moisturize and give my hair a break. Every other month, I install box braids to give myself a break from styling. This routine has helped me retain 2 inches of growth this summer, and it’s all because I spent time learning what is good for my hair.

2. GET DEDICATED.

You say you want long and healthy hair, but what are you doing about it? A few years ago I called myself getting serious about my hair journey, but I was still doing things to counteract any progress I was making, such as: using too much heat, neglecting my hair, leaving protective styles in for too long, not deep conditioning, not moisturizing, etc.

Once you gain understanding, you’ll know exactly what you need to do to grow healthy hair, including: following a regimen, refraining from damaging hair practices like excessive heat and over-manipulation, deep conditioning regularly, maintaining a good diet, and drinking lots of water. But do you do it?

If you’re still learning, don’t be afraid to try but just know that retaining length is going to take some sort of effort. The amount of effort depends on the person. My hair tends to be prone to split ends so I have to be very cautious and watchful of anything that will hinder me from retaining length, like slacking on my regimen or handling my hair too harshly.

Ultimately, if you really want long and healthy hair, you’ll do what it takes to achieve it. It doesn’t take all of your time and a boatload of money to do it. Truly, being dedicated will take you farther than any hair product or miracle growth oil ever will.

3. BE CONSISTENT.

Now that you’re equipped with the knowledge and are really ready to put your best foot forward, consistency is all you need. There were many times in my hair journey when I made significant progress but I found myself growing weary, getting antsy, or was just tired of trying. Right when my hair was on the cusp of greatness, I would resort back to my bad habits because it was just easier.

Sometimes you have to tell yourself no! So if you’re committed to refraining from heat for six months, don’t let yourself give in at month three. Don’t skip a week of deep conditioning or allow yourself any room for excuses. At times you may feel like it’s “not that big of a deal” but if long and healthy hair is your goal, consistency is essential because it takes time to see lasting results. It’ll take some discipline, but it will also be well worth it.

As with anything in life, the more you put in, the more you get out. So if your hair isn’t where you want it, just know that it can get there! It’s up to you. So learn what you’re doing wrong, get serious about what you need to change, and just stick with it. You’ll get there!

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NATURAL HAIR DIVERSITY

Hey HONEYVERANS!!!!

To characterize the diversity of hair types worldwide and identify their various properties, L’Oréal researchers have studied several different parameters: the shape of the hair shaft, the structure of the hair fiber components, the growth of the hair follicle and its pigmentation. They have drawn on techniques from biology, chemistry and biophysics, using optical and digital microscopic imaging.

Fifty percent of the world’s population has dark to very dark brown hair
As with skin, the diversity of hair types worldwide is reflected in a continuum of color. An evaluation of natural hair color based on volunteers’ geographical origin, age and sex showed that the natural color of over 80% of the world’s population ranges [1] from black to light brown, and almost 50% of the population has dark or very dark brown hair. Blonde colors are mainly limited to Northern and Eastern Europe, while Asian, Melanesian and African hair is characterized by darker colors and less diversity.

From very straight to very curly hair
Hair shaft shape ranges from “straight with a circular cross-section” to “kinky with a highly elliptical cross-section and areas of torsion”. While shape is not specific to a given ethnic group, Asian hair is usually straight with a round cross-section, African hair tends to be twisted with a flattened cross-section and European hair is somewhere in between [2].

However, in order to move away from the three conventional ethnic groups
(African, Asian and Caucasian) and take into account the complex biological diversity created by extensive multiethnicity, L’Oréal researchers have established four hair shape descriptors: Curve diameter (CD), Curl index (i), Number of waves (w), and The Number of twists (t).

 

Human hair shape is programmed from the bulb
The bulb of curly hair is curved, while that of straight hair is straight in shape. L’Oréal biologists also found that the shape of the bulb is linked to asymmetry in cell differentiation programs. The curve of the hair is created by an internal mechanical force [4].

The speed at which hair grows depends on its shape

 

Hair growth measurements [5] using phototrichograms found that:
• African hair is characterized by both slow hair growth and low hair density
• Chinese hair also has a low density but grows very fast
• Caucasian hair grows at an intermediate rate per day and is very dense
The relationship between hair growth rate and hair morphology [6] was identified based on the observation that thick hair strands (types I and II) grow quickly, whereas thin hair strands grow more slowly.

Curly hair is more fragile than straight hair
The physical differences measured when comparing several African American hair samples with different curl patterns suggest that the curl pattern influences the behavior of the hair, and in particular its resistance to mechanical stress [7] . The curlier the hair, the smaller the curve diameter and, given that very curly hair stretches less under stress, it is more likely to break.

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How To Know When Your Hair is Damaged

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Hey HoneyVerans!!!

Sometimes the hair doesn’t always look damaged, but there are a few things you can look out for that will help distinguish the difference between healthy and unhealthy hair. Here are 7 ways to tell if your naturally curly hair is damaged.

SPLIT ENDS

• Do your curl crushes brag about going a year between trims or a proper hair cut?

They maintain healthy hair all year around. If you notice that your ends begin to split almost immediately after a trim, your hair could be fragile and break off easily. The minimum amount of time before an average person will notice their hair splitting is one to two months after a trim.

TEXTURE

• Have you ever run your finger over a strand of hair? Does it feel a bit bumpy or smooth?

If there is an obvious difference in smoothness on a single strand of hair from root to ends, chances are you have gaps in your hair strand which is a significant sign of breakage. While protein treatments help to temporarily fill in the gaps, sometimes the problem can be fixed internally with proper nutrition and effective hair vitamins.

POROSITY

• While I have mentioned before the importance of knowing your hair’s porosity levels, it is more important to identify whether your hair is damaged or not.

Hair that is highly porous means the cuticle layer is damaged, so your curls aren’t able to properly absorb and maintain moisture. The end result is hair that is dry and brittle. There are a few things you can try to actually tighten the cuticle, along with using products formulated to give you the effect of closing it.

MATTING HAIR

• If you find yourself taking much longer than normal to detangle even when your hair is soaking wet with a slippery conditioner, this could be a sign that your curls are damaged.

This is because the cuticle is lifted in damaged hair, making it harder for each individual strand to slide past each other when combing or detangling.

LOSS & BREAKAGE

• If you notice a lot of hair falling out when detangling, while combing or brushing, there is a high chance your curls are damaged.

Next time you brush your hair, take a look at the strands that your tool has collected. If you notice a root bulb, it could be improper nutrition and an unhealthy scalp. If there is no bulb, chances are your hair has been broken off which signifies weak or damaged hair.

POPPING & SNAPPING

• Healthy hair, when wet, actually stretches if it is gently pulled. Elasticity in each hair strand is normal.

However, if it stretches a bit too much and then snaps or pops, your curls lack protein. On the other hand, if your hair pops right away when you attempt to stretch it, your curls could be too dry and lacking moisture. These are two minor yet important elements in unhealthy or damaged hair.

DULLNESS

• A lack of shine could be a direct cause of improper styling techniques or excessive heat styling.

Another reason why your hair might be looking a little dull could be because of chemical damage like using relaxers or boxed hair dyes that are too strong for your curls.

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DANDRUFF GO AWAY!!!

Hey HoneyVerans!!

Your dandruff may be a bummer, but it's harmless to your health.

Dandruff is a "cosmetic" problem, says New York dermatologist Michele Green, MD. "It will not cause anything bad."

No one knows precisely what causes dandruff, though a fungus called malassezia may play a role. It's normal to have malassezia on your skin. Too much of it, though, is linked to dandruff.

These are some of the common reasons your scalp can get dry and itchy:

Seborrheic dermatitis (or seborrhea): This common skin condition causes redness,itching, and flaking. It can occur on many parts of the body. When it affects the scalp, it's called dandruff. It's treatable. Most often, over-the-counter medicated shampoos will stop the flakes from falling. More stubborn cases will likely benefit from prescription-strength shampoos and steroid creams.

Scalp psoriasis can cause dandruff-like itching and flaking. Psoriasis happens when the immune system triggers too many skin cells to grow on various parts of the body. That can include your scalp. People with psoriasis may be more likely to get dandruff, but psoriasisis not dandruff.

Eczema. This skin condition can make your scalp itchy and flaky. It's most common in babies and children, but anyone can get it. The cause is unknown. Moisturizers and prescription steroid creams can help relieve the symptoms, as can avoiding harsh soaps and scratching. It also helps to avoid stress whenever possible.

Certain diseases, such as Parkinson's and HIV, have also been linked to dandruff. People with these diseases have higher rates of dandruff, says Heather Onoday, RN. She's a nurse practitioner who specializes in dermatology at Oregon Health and Science University in Portland, Ore. Having dandruff doesn't make either of those diseases more likely, though.

A poor diet also has been suggested as a culprit, although Green says there's no proven link. Jeffrey Benabio, MD, agrees.

"We may see associations but we can't say that, for example, vitamin D deficiency from lack of sunlight in winter causes dandruff," says Benabio, a dermatologist with Kaiser Permanente in San Diego.

Eat a well-rounded diet for your overall health. A dry scalp doesn't mean you're lacking any particular nutrient, though.

3 Things That Can Make Dandruff Worse

These things don't cause dandruff, but they worsen it if you already have it:

1. Not washing your hair often enough. "That's the simplest reason," Green says. "It should be washed every day or every other day."
2. Stress. "Stress makes everything worse," Green says. Stress happens, so what really matters is how you respond to it.
3. The season. "It's always worse during the winter, when it's really cold out and overheated indoors," Green says.

No matter what's causing your scalp to itch and flake, you can take control with our 100% ORGANIC Castor-Coconut Hair Oil and VeraGrow Scalp Tonic.

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How to Stretch or Straighten Natural Hair SAFELY

Hey HoneyVerans!!!

Here's the truth, sometimes naturals want their hair to be more manageable and showoff their length let's do safely... 

Step 1: Heat Protection

Always, always, ALWAYS protect your hair when it comes to manipulating it with heat. Protecting your hair from dryness, cracked cuticles, breakage, and heat damage starts on wash day. A moisturizing shampoo or cowash, a great deep conditioner, and stellar heat protecting/leave-in products are a must. Making sure hair is properly moisturized and protected will guarantee a better finished product. These products are all great heat protectants that will help moisturize, strengthen, and prevent heat damage:

• Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray
• ApHogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer Spray
•  ApHogee Curlific Leave-In
• Blow Dry Addict Blow Dry Creme

MORE: Naptural85's Heatless Blowout 

Step 2: Check The Method

Once you've got your product arsenal together, it's time to discuss methods for heat stretching. There are 4 popular methods for heat stretching to choose from (okay so one of them is a little unconventional, and I totally stumbled upon it on accident one day).

TENSION METHOD

The tension method is one of the least damaging ways to go from dripping wet to dry hair. All you need is a blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle. With hair parted into however many sections works for you (I do 5-6), apply your protection products of choice. With your hair detangled and smoothed between your fingers, gently stretch it downward. With hair in the stretched state, gently move the concentrator nozzle down the shaft of the hair repeatedly until dry. The downward motion provides a better stretch. Medium or low heat with high speeds are recommended with this method.

BLOWDRY WITH COMB/ATTACHMENT

This is your regular, run-of-the-mill blow drying session. It has the propensity to cause the most damage, but it is also the most effective if you are looking to get super straight stretched hair. This method involves applying protection product, and either with a wide-tooth comb or comb attachment, moving through the hair with the blow dryer at medium or low heat and high speed. You can use the high setting if you choose, for a straighter look. However, the hotter the blow dryer, the faster it zaps moisture from your hair.

BAND/BRAID THEN BLOW DRY

Because blow drying can literally zap the moisture out of the hair, some naturals and transitioners prefer to let their hair air dry partially first. The most effective way to air dry is with the hair completely loose, but this lends itself to massive shrinkage, tangling, and breakage. To ward off those natural hair horrors, banding the hair or putting the hair in loose braids works well. Once hair is about 75% dry, you can then use either the tension or comb/attachment blow drying method to finish the job.

STEAMER BLOWOUT

This one I stumbled upon on accident. Way back when I got my Q-Redew, I began using it to refresh, moisturize, and detangle my hair. One random evening, I decided to ditch the conditioner to detangle, and see what 100% steam-only would do to my hair. The end result: a massive blowout that was super moisturized! This is surely the way to go if you are terrified of the blow dryer. There is gentle heat, but the water infuses moisture deep into the strand which prevents drying. Will it give you better results than a blow dryer? Maybe. Will your hair be dry afterward? Absolutely not! Check out my Instagram to peep the blowout picture!

FLAT IRONING

*cue horror music* This is the one straightening/stretching method that sends chills throughout the natural hair and transitioning community. After doing so much hard work to get curls healthy, everything could be for naught in one fell swoop. But if you do it right, the results are gorgeous and your curls will revert 100%. You need clean hair (shampoo clean, not cowash clean) that has been deep condition, and dried via one of the above methods (except steaming). Heat protection here is SUPER important! I recommend a heat protectant before blow drying, and a serum before flat ironing. Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Sleek Oil Treatment is my favorite flat ironing serum to use. Using a flat iron with a visible temperature gauge (no high, medium, low!), make 1 or 2 passes (no more than 2) over super small sections of hair. It is CRITICAL that hair be 100% dry before flat ironing to prevent bubbling within the shaft. Also, while temperature tolerance varies head-to-head, it is generally a good idea to keep flat iron temperatures below 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, under 380 degrees. Click here for more in-depth information about flat ironing hair.

Step 3: Moisturize and Maintain

Maintaining moisture levels in heat stretched hair can be difficult. Water-based anything will cause immediate reversion. But at the same time, water is the one true moisturizer. Talk about a paradox! One of the best ways to combat this is to regularly moisturize the hair with an oil that is known to penetrate the hair shaft. Easiest, most accessible, and affordable is coconut oil. Applying it sparingly throughout your stretched hair stint will help keep the hair moisturized, and protect the ends which are incredibly prone to drying out. Other oils that penetrate the hair shaft (although not as effectively as coconut oil) are: grapeseed oil, argan oil, palm kernel oil, and flaxseed oil. Ucuuba butter is also known to penetrate the hair. At this stage, it is super important to avoid silicone-based serums. They don't penetrate the hair, and they can have a mild occlusive effect and prevent other moisturizers from getting in as well. Although it may be more expensive, 100% pure oil is best. Cold pressed, virgin, and unrefined is even better. 

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